Outer Islands

The Cook Islands consist of the southern (eight islands) and northern group (seven). Natural wonders and timeless unspoilt beauty await for the intrepid travellers who make the trip by air or, for the smaller, more remote islands, boat when conditions allow.

Lose yourself in the mystique and legend of Mangaia, well off the beaten track in spirit but just a 40-minute flight from Rarotonga. The adventurous few who visit the most southerly, and second largest, of the Cook Islands are greeted by high fossilised-coral cliffs, a volcanic plateau and sunken wetlands featuring an underground stream, splashing creek and small lake. Stroll among cave-like structures (often sacred sites) and ancient staircases (crevices made into steps), dive into the Tuaati rock pool, snorkel among the vibrant sea life, visit the Saragossa shipwreck or scooter to a peaceful lookout for a picnic – ideally including a delicious local donut bought at the early morning market, where you can also grab one of the locally crafted necklaces or hatbands made from tiny yellow snails (pupu).

A little further afield, about 1.5 hours from Rarotonga, are the stunning limestone caves of Mitiaro, along with sunken freshwater pools, the healing powers of Vai Nauri Lake and freshwater cavern of Te Pitakare. Laze and swim at secluded white-sand beaches, and adapt to the slow pace of life among the 200-odd people, along with roaming pigs and goats. Coconut palms, an abundant underwater life including eel, bream and prawns, old fort, vibrant crops of kumara, corn, bananas, watermelon and lime; plus traditional fishing boats lining the shore … gentle attractions abound.

A similar distance (about 1.5 hours from Rarotonga) is the beautiful, peaceful garden island of Mauke. A leisurely half-hour motorbike ride will circle the coral roads of the island, taking in the two villages, striking architecture, local bakery and a couple of cottages/retreats. De-stress and revitalise among the region’s trademark coconut palms and sandy beaches; and share in the pride of the couple of hundred locals in their fishing, planting and farming at a feast featuring rukau (taro leaves), poke (baked bananas in coconut cream) and raw fish salad (ika mata). As is customary in the Cook Islands, the relatively few tourists who venture to this little-known gem are warmly welcomed. Be sure to catch a vibrant harbour sunset and marvel in the soothing smell and colour of the renowned local flower Maire (prestigious and generally worn at special events, given its lengthy process to pick in difficult conditions). Swim under stalactites at a freshwater cave (Via Tango being the most accessible) or lake, be swept up in the soaring harmonies at an historic church service and sample the legendary healing properties of Akari Pi, a local oil infused with organic coconut oil.

Manuae

Sitting on the peak of a submerged volcano 100km south-east of Aitutaki, this one-time penal colony’s only full-time residents are the abundant marine life and sea turtles. The lucky few visitors (permit-only) who negotiate the tricky narrow passage into the lagoon are greeted by a world of natural unspoilt beauty and wonder.

Takutea

Quietly shining just north-west of Atiu, this uninhabited jewel has an emerald centre, lush vegetation, teeming marine life and is a pristine seabird and turtle sanctuary. A dream destination for keen surfers, with two breaks and favourable conditions, but the only access is courtesy of calmer waters when waves allow and with permission from the chief – or join a diving/fishing charter.

Manihiki

Featuring an expansive 4km deep lagoon circled by 40 tiny coral islets, with black pearl farming at its core, Manihiki sits 1300km from Rarotonga, with about 500 locals and two main islands featuring a tiny school, church and shops. Boat is the main travel around this character-filled pocket of paradise; enjoy local delicacies including karori (pearl oysters in coconut cream), crayfish and coconut-centre pancakes, admire the shimmering shades of green, gold, purple, blue and silver in the precious, hard-earnt pearls; snorkel, swim or fish.

Penrhyn

Settlements sit either end of a spectacular 230-square kilometre enclosed lagoon. The most remote of the Cook Islands to the north-east, access is tricky, generally via cargo ship, yet rich rewards and a genuinely warm welcome await, along with a lagoon surrounded by glistening pearl shells, a coral ring and teeming with marine life. Game or bone fish, relax on one of many uninhabited scattered small motu and admire the rito weaving (coconut frond fibres) in hats, mat, fans and jewellery.

Rakahanga

An isolated, sleepy and charming outpost with two main islands, seven islets, large shallow lagoon and a closely-knit, generous community of about 150, living among a couple of small shop, church, primary school and government office. Situated about 40km south-east of Manihiki and accessible via irregular two-hour inter-island ferry, lose track of time amid coconut palms, pandanus and marine life including huge coconut crabs, sea turtles and tuna.

Pukapuka

Secluded, untouched and remote, about 1150km from Rarotonga with infrequent flights available and its own language. Traditions and culture are maintained among the 400 locals who are naturally good sports, excelling in wrestling, canoe racing and coconut tree climbing, and naturally exuberant singers and dancers. Strict communal rules prevent overharvesting at this fishing paradise, featuring the likes of yellowfin tun, mahi mahi and flying fish at night.

Nassau

This “Garden of Eden”, just one square kilometre wide and home to less than 100 people enjoying a simple, charming life of self-sufficiency, lies 80km south of Pukapuka and is accessible by inter-island boat. Unique for region, it has no lagoon but freshwater spring and a narrow coral reef, with lush plantations of taro and fruit, and, being just 11 degrees below equator, a 12-hour split of night and day and 27C temperatures year round.

Suwarrow

Cook Island’s first national park, alert caretakers if planning to visit (generally via yacht or charter vessel) this uninhabited, near perfect but also nearly inaccessible nature reserve. A rich breeding ground for seabirds, turtles and other marine life; the lucky few who get close can swim, dive in the crystal lagoon overflowing with colour, and experience the unique charm that attracted hermit Tom Neale to live here for 15 years between 1952 and 1977, thriving on a lush garden, chickens, fish and coconut crabs.

Palmerston

Experience a unique little community of about 50 living largely off the land, with parrot and shellfish the main industry. The intrepid types who arrive by boat or the irregular cargo service are warmly welcomed and treated to trademark South Pacific white sands bordering a huge 50km lagoon edged by coral reef. Green turtles, taro, breadfruit abound and despite its small size, Palmerston boasts a yacht club where can get crafts and T-shirt souvenirs.